Denim, fringe and chunky rubber slider. These are the elements of summer clothing for the coming year from Saturday, the second day of the Menwear Preview of Milan Fashion Week.
Temperatures in Milan were unusually high and the thermometer peaked at 34 centigrade (93 Fahrenheit) and the fashion crowd came to the show with predictions that it would continue to get hotter in the coming days. It’s an easy sale for linen, but less so for making leather and even fur on Milan’s spring-summer 2023 runway.
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Milan fashion house Fendi, Emporio Armani and Dolls & Gabbana wanted to cheer with a collection that hints at a return to retirement and some nostalgia notes. Highlights from Saturday’s show:
Verse’s Twelve Pop
Reaching the next generation, Versace is reinventing the brand’s iconic Medusa in animated versions that seem to come alive as a recurring pattern of silk. Call it the Pop Baroque.
Donatella Versace is back in men’s clothing with a fun and innovative collection full of colors and variations displayed in the courtyard of the fashion house’s central Milan headquarters. The mirrored pillars are turning towards life, casting pictures of the classical statue.
In keeping with the concerns of the younger generation towards the planet, Versace has replaced the exotic skins with neon accents with Python prints, appearing as grounded trenches or trousers by large pinstripped accent pieces. The eco-sustainable latex-styled leather-looking repetitive diamond pattern was well ventilated.
A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Men’s Spring Summer 2023 collection presented in Milan, Italy. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
Bright salmon, lemon yellow and orange have popped up exaggerated silhouettes that include silken shirts that feature delightful next-generation versus classic bust icons.
Leaving valuables from the Versace Home collection, Versace’s new man mixes design media: carrying a precious jug, hanging a tea-cup from his belt, wearing a spoon curved into a bracelet.
Driving home to the target audience, the runway features the boys of classic Versace models like Mark Vanderlu, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni.
Milan County took on a winning lap
Marcelo Berlon celebrates the 10th anniversary of his county of Milan label with an included outdoor runway show on an athletic stadium track.
The position, paired with the roots of the brand’s street wear, opens with a graphic peace sign on a oversized sweatshirt and quickly changes the mood for him or her in a pastel patchwork jacket and sink-waist trousers combo.
Berlin says he likes to call his collection “Urban Staples for Adults.”
Berlin’s models ranged from the usual rage of age, ranging from a young girl in a dark suit with details of the brand’s feather motifs to a gray-haired male model topped with a bright matching and clashing patchwork tunic and trousers with a suit jacket.
“I always think of myself as a cultural wanderer, with a growing network of creative cool people, and that includes people of all ages and all backgrounds,” Berlin says. “I guess you could say my goal is a contemporary molten pot.”
Italian Olympic gold medalist sprinter Olympian Marcel Jacobs walked into the show after the cover of a blue workman. At the end of the show, Berlin went to Vijay’s lap.
Fringe at FENDI
Sylvia Venturini Fendi has created an earthy, grounded look in shades for a planet-conscious generation in shades that combine with a new motif created from images of the Earth’s rotating weather patterns, from serene chambers to hearty ochres.
This collection carries some nostalgia for a more flawless period, ranging from jeans hems to soft seams on denim bags, embroidered accents reminiscent of long, delicious tassels on beaded daisy chains and moccasins. The bucket hat is cut for a visa feel, while the knitted cloches sport brims. The chunky rubber slip-ons were emblazoned with the inverted double-F logo.
For a simple day look, denim trousers were worn with knitwear in tones combined with faded denim Fendi shopkeepers with a long, fringed crossbody strap. For the beach, there were linen shorts with a soft zipped jacket and a strong-soled slip-on loafer. Further on the dressing edge, cream wide bermuda shorts with a camel jacket and purple zipper, including a cutout bucket hat.
Rotating patterns of the earth were displayed in jacquard coats and intersia knitwear and fur and a pair of adequate covers. The bags included a duffel-bucket combo that cut out the Fendi sound into the leather; A denim Pikabu was included as an external water bottle holder and the bright buyers were made of recycled plastic.
“It’s about the balance of decor and simplicity,” Venturini said in a Fendi show note. “The unknown feeling of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of leisure time.”
DOLCE & GABBANA Past Season Review
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are back in their archives for a new collection called “Re-edition” that draws inspiration from the past, but has been updated for the moment.
Like slate cleaning, the designers opened the show with a white tank and a barefoot model in briefs.
Dolce & Gabbana are boring elements mixed with pieces suitable for a high-low fashion appeal. The fashion house’s traditional lace tops have been updated with a sleek back, otherwise the dresser piece has been given some streetwear credibility. Wearing fringing jeans was a black jacket and white shirt with no buttons at the waist – like a complete re-edition collection, each piece carries a label that is the original year of issue and the 2023 season update, to dose now and then.
The patchwork denim statement becomes a piece, a knee-high boot that can be seen in fashion from a jean jacket paired with a patchwork shorts, with a peek left in the middle. A soft white terry track suit gave way to the familiar bling of Dolls & Gabbana: a crystal-covered rose-pattern jacket, ripped white jeans and velvet glass-covered slippers. Shoes include macrame sneakers with hairy slippers, canvas or lace.
“I like the freedom of expression,” said stylist Apuje Kalu, who joined the show from the front row with NFL quarterback Tyrode Taylor and NBA players Rudy Gay, Jaren Jackson Jr. and Corey Kispert. “The use of colors, textures and prints, they are not afraid to do it for men. You won’t always see it. “
Emporio Armani’s Siscapes
The Emporio Armani collection carries the carefree waves of summer, from light chamber tones to faded coral prints. The sense of appearance was that it was time to return to simple pleasure.
Soft shirts, gillets and jackets, with dramatic flaps, high neck or zipper accents, were associated with streamline cargo shorts or pleated trousers, often with informal slits on the legs.
Beachy’s looks with drawstring pants and knitwear were finished with chunky rubber slip-ons, while a more urban sophisticated sequined look – including a series of black-and-white combo suits – was grounded with thick-soled black shoes.
Models of all colors wore hair in Cornro, which the show note described as “ridiculously exaggerated” and perhaps tied to the theme of a woven summer basket collection described by the fashion house as “full of wonder that brings the holiday spirit to the city.”
As if to underline the need for pleasure, an angry dancer took to the stage to close the show.
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