It’s not every designer who can create a fashion show around a quote from Nietzsche. But Marc Jacobs has always been an external flair for drama.
The German philosopher once said, “We have art so that truth does not die.” Avenue.
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If there is any doubt that Jacobs was referring to the turbulent development of the outside world, he also spoke of creating and sharing his creative choices “in the face of the ongoing barbarism and ugliness of a world outside our barrier but impenetrable wall.”
Jacobs’ show in the marble lobby of the famous library came to the same venue exactly one year after his previous show. That show, held in the summer and not during Fashion Week, was the first private runway show since the epidemic closed for a few seasons and was intended to send a strong message that New York City was back. It was hard to imagine then that a year later, the epidemic would not end.
But still New York rumbles, and so does Jacobs’ runway. Like last year, her design had a futuristic feel, including outsize proportions, glossy materials, whimsical shapes and lots of color.
Models wearing white platform boots look shiny like a shiny dress in cobalt blue, with a matching handkerchief tied around the neck. These and other ensembles come with long, elbow-length gloves. Surprisingly, there were some high-performance surgical scrubs, such as drawstring pants and a lavender enamel with those long gloves, apparently ready for the operating room.
The bright blue or pink sweaters were huge and heavy, with huge sleeves hanging around the waist or above the shoulders, enough to hide other people. Soon flared dresses gave way to more skin-bearing ensembles like a long pink skirt with a short, sequined bikini top.
An interesting look was a metallic tunic similar to a chainmail, paired with elbow-length black gloves and a handkerchief of the same material. Then came the fancy things: a long green or purple skirt with shiny oversized puff sleeves and a dramatic, bluing gown in neon green.
Jacobs was obviously having fun with both materials and shapes and in fact he listed them in his show notes. Next to a column entitled “People” (this would be the model, a list that included Hadid’s sisters, Bella and Gigi) he published his materials – canvas, denim, foil, glass, leather, paint, paper, plaster (!), Plastic , Rubber and vinyl. Sizes included bikinis, blazers, cardigans, cargo pants – and scrubs, among other things.
Excessive theme seems to have been revealed in the show’s title: “Choice,” and even more so, creativity. “My feelings are intact,” the designer wrote. “Creativity is essential for survival.”
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